An unspoiled jewel in the heart of the Adriatic Sea that was closed to foreigners until 1991, Vis Island's wartime history is often overlooked by visitors seduced by its pristine remote beaches and charming fishing villages. Yet beneath Vis's serene exterior lies a captivating history, marked by the indelible imprints of World War II and Tito's regime. Take a trip back in time with our local experts through secret bunkers and Tito's hidden cave hideout to abandoned submarine pens and forgotten shipwrecks.
Sleepy Vis Island was the ideal World War II hideout for Tito and the Yugoslavian Partisans.
1. The Strategic Importance of Vis Island
During World War II Vis Island's location in the Adriatic, roughly equidistant between Italy and the Yugoslav mainland, made the island a coveted prize for both the Allied and Axis powers. The island was occupied by Italy in 1941 and then taken over by the Partisans in 1943 with many Allied Forces also stationed there. Throughout the entire war Vis Island was never occupied by Germany.
Vis Island was especially prized for its potential to serve as a strategic naval base and for its airport. Its deep natural harbors, such as Vis Town (Luka Vis) and Komiža, provided shelter and anchorage for naval vessels. Vis Island's proximity to the Italian coast, just over 60 miles away, made it an ideal outpost for reconnaissance, control, and a potential launch pad for military operations in the Adriatic and the Mediterranean. Control over Vis Island would allow its possessor to exercise significant influence and control over naval operations, troop movements, and supply routes in the Adriatic.
Vis Island also served as a hub for coordinating resistance activities against Axis forces. Josip Broz Tito, who would go on to become the autocratic leader of Yugoslavia for over three decades, and his Partisan forces found refuge and support on the island. The island's rugged terrain and complex network of tunnels and fortifications provided a formidable defensive position, making it challenging for the Axis to seize control, while the island's residents aided Tito and his forces, offering shelter, supplies, and information.
Scattered across Vis Island are secret facilities like this cave where Tito hid out with the Yugoslavian Partisans.
2. Vis Town's Wartime History
Vis Town, the island's administrative and cultural center, is a great place to start exploring Vis's wartime history.
St. Jerome's Church (Crkva sv. Jeronima): Located in Vis Town, this historic church was used as a hospital by British forces during the war. You can visit the church to see the preserved graffiti left by soldiers and wounded who sought refuge there.
British Cemetery: Situated near Vis Town, the British Cemetery is the final resting place for soldiers from the British Commonwealth who lost their lives during WWII. The cemetery is a solemn and reflective site to remember those caught up in this global conflict.
Coastal Defenses: The rugged coastal landscape around Vis Town is dotted with remnants of military fortifications, bunkers, and tunnels that were constructed during World War II. These structures were vital for the defense of the island and are part of the island's historical legacy.
Resistance leader Tito (centre) used a cave on Vis to meet with Partisan leaders.
3. Tito's Cave
Tito's Cave, or "Titova Špilja" as it's known locally, played a crucial role during World War II. It served as a clandestine meeting place for Josip Broz Tito and his Partisan leaders, who were at the forefront of the Yugoslav resistance movement against the Axis powers. This secret cave provided a secure and hidden location for strategic discussions, planning, and decision-making.
Getting to Tito's Cave: Once on Vis Island, you can get to Tito's Cave by various means. Many visitors choose to rent a car, scooter, or bicycle to explore the island at their own pace. Alternatively, local taxi services are available, and you can also use the island's bus system. Tito's Cave is situated near the village of Podšpilje which sits at the foot of the highest peak of the island, Hum (587 m), 8km from Komiza and 11km from Vis Town.
A more scenic way to reach Tito's Cave is by hiking from the village of Podšpilje. The trail is well-marked and offers stunning views of the island's natural beauty. It's approximately a 45-minute hike from the village to the cave. Note that there are 275 steps to reach the cave and it is not advisable to hike during the hot summer months.
Exploring Vis Island's submarine pen by small boat.
4. Vis Island Submarine Pen
Vis Island's most famous military structure is Jastog (meaning "Lobster") Tunnel, the well-preserved WWII submarine pen at Parja Bay. Although actually built in the 1980s, this is a must-see for history fans. Invisible from the air and well-disguised by the surrounding rocky coastline, this 127-metre long and 18-metre high tunnel was designed to shelter a 110-metre submarine.
These days visitors can go inside with small boats or even swim in the pen itself. Jastog Tunnel is a 10-minute drive from Vis Town, so it's best either rent a car to visit the tunnels or take a tour with a local guide who can show you all the island's hidden wartime secrets.
Tunnels lead to Stupice missile base near the town of Komiža.
5. Stupice Missile Base
Another historical highlight on Vis is the Stupice missile base near Komiža, which was established during the Cold War as a key component of the former Yugoslavia's defense strategy. The base was was operational until the early 1990s. It served as a critical part of Yugoslavia's defense against potential aggression from the West and was equipped with anti-aircraft missile systems. Today the missiles are long gone, but visitors can see rusting WW2 cannons left behind by the Italians.
6. The Secret Tunnels of Vis
The island is home to a network of tunnels, bunkers, and fortifications built during WWII and later under Tito's rule. You can explore some of these structures, such as those in Vis Town and around the island, to get a sense of the defensive measures taken during the conflict. Since they can be tricky to find, it's best to either ask locals where they are or to go with a local guide.
7. A Local Guide to Vis Island's Wartime History
Many of Vis Island's secret tunnels and bunkers are only really know to locals, so the best way to experience them is with a local guide. We highly recommend Jurica, a Vis native who has been running these types of tours for years and loves to take visitors on off-the-beaten track adventures. Contact us below if you'd like more information about this tour (prices start from 70 euros per person depending on group size).