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A Local's Guide to visiting Hvar Island, Croatia

Planning a trip to Hvar Island, Croatia? Here's your local's guide with everything you need to know about this famous Adriatic isle, including the best local Hvar restaurants, top accommodation options, and little-known beaches tourists never normally get to...


The sunniest island in Croatia, with over 2718 hours of sunshine per year, Hvar Island is a mecca for visitors and locals alike looking to party hard, explore, or simply soak up some rays. It's also the longest island in Croatia, stretching for 68 km, with numerous cute towns, olive groves, vineyards, lavender fields, and hidden coves along the way. In this guide our local experts share some of their favourite secret spots to experience the authentic Hvar as well as the best places to eat, sleep, and play.


Overview








1. Getting to Hvar


Getting to Split, Croatia:

Split is the nearest major city to Hvar Island and serves as the main transportation hub for travelers en route to the island. There are several options to reach Split:

  • By Air: Fly into Split Airport (Resnik Airport), which offers a wide range of international flights. From the airport, you can take a taxi or bus to Split's city center.

  • By Car: If you're arriving from other parts of Croatia or neighboring countries like Slovenia, Hungary, Austria or Italy, consider driving to Split. The road network is well-maintained, and the journey provides beautiful coastal views.

Travelling from Split to Hvar Island:

From Split, there are several transportation options to get to Hvar Island:

  • By Ferry: The most common and convenient way to reach Hvar from Split is by taking a ferry. The ferries depart from Split's main port (Split Ferry Port) and arrive at Hvar Town or Stari Grad. The journey offers scenic views of the Adriatic Sea and nearby islands. Another option is the non-direct catamaran route from Split to Jelsa which stops first at Bol on Brač Island. Ferry schedules vary by season, so be sure to check the timetables and book your tickets in advance, especially during the summer when demand is high. The journey takes between 1-2 hours depending on the route chosen.

  • Catamaran: Another fast and popular option is to take a catamaran from Split to Hvar. The catamaran service is quicker than the ferry, and it arrives in Hvar Town. Check the schedules and book your tickets ahead of time.

  • Private Boat: For a more exclusive and customizable experience, you can charter a private boat to Hvar. This option allows you to set your own schedule and enjoy the journey at your own pace. Several companies in Split offer boat charters.


Travelling from Dubrovnik to Hvar Island:

Another option during the high season is to take a ferry from Dubrovnik in the south of Croatia to Hvar. Note that this route takes 3-4 hours, includes several stops along the way, and there are only 3 departures each day which means tickets sell out fast in the summer months.


Arrival in Hvar:

Once you arrive in Hvar, you'll find yourself in Hvar Town, the island's main hub. From here, you can access various local transportation options to reach your specific destination on the island, such as taxi services, car rentals, or public buses. Another great option is to hire a rental car or scooter on Hvar so you can move around the island independently.

Local Travel Tips for Hvar Island

  • Booking in Advance: Especially during the peak tourist season, it's advisable to book your ferry or catamaran tickets in advance to secure your spot and ensure a smooth journey.

  • Weather Considerations: Be aware of weather conditions, as ferry and catamaran schedules may be affected by adverse weather. Check for updates and be prepared for possible delays, especially during the winter months.

  • Bicycles: Bikes can usually be taken on ferries and catamarans as long as you buy a ticket for them. Be sure to check at the ticket office before you buy your tickets.

  • Cash and Currency: It's a good idea to have some cash, including some coins, on hand for transportation and other expenses on Hvar Island.


Most visitors come to Hvar during the balmy summer months when you can enjoy views like this from the fortress above Hvar Town.


2. The Best Time to Visit Hvar


Hvar Island is a year-round destination, with each season offering its unique charm and experiences. To help you choose the best time to visit Hvar, consider the following:


Summer (June to August):


Best For: Beach Lovers, Nightlife Enthusiasts, and Festivals

  • Weather: Summer is the peak season with temperatures ranging from 25°C to 35°C (77°F to 95°F). It's the sunniest and warmest time, ideal for swimming and sunbathing.

  • Beaches: Enjoy the island's pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters. Hvar's stunning beaches come alive during the summer months, offering a wide range of water sports and beachside cafes.

  • Nightlife: Experience Hvar's legendary nightlife, with beach bars, nightclubs, and vibrant open-air parties. The island is famous for its lively atmosphere after dark, particularly in Hvar Town.

  • Festivals: Attend local events and festivals, including the Hvar Summer Festival, where you can enjoy classical concerts, theater performances, and art exhibitions.

Spring (April to May) and Fall (September to October):


Best For: Mild Weather, Fewer Crowds, and Outdoor Activities

  • Weather: Spring and fall offer pleasant temperatures between 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F). It's an ideal time for outdoor activities.

  • Outdoor Adventures: Explore hiking and cycling trails, and visit the island's vineyards and lavender fields in full bloom.

  • Fewer Crowds: Enjoy the island with fewer tourists, making it easier to secure accommodation and dine in popular restaurants.

  • Off-Peak Prices: Accommodation and services may be more budget-friendly during these shoulder seasons.

Winter (November to March):


Best For: Tranquility, Culture, and Lower Costs

  • Weather: Winter is the least popular time to visit Hvar, with temperatures ranging from 7°C to 15°C (45°F to 59°F). It's relatively mild compared to continental Europe, although rainfall typically peaks in November.

  • Cultural Exploration: Discover the island's history, visit its museums, and immerse yourself in the local way of life without the hustle and bustle of the summer crowds.

  • Budget Travel: Prices for accommodations and dining are considerably lower in the winter months.

  • Festive Season: Experience the island's unique charm during the festive season, as Hvar Town becomes adorned with holiday decorations and a festive atmosphere.


Stari Grad is popular with families and couples looking for a relaxing summer break.


3. Where to Stay on Hvar


Wondering where to stay on Hvar? There are three main towns which are served by ferry routes - Hvar Town, Stari Grad, and Jesla - which each have a very different vibe. Hvar Town is famous for its dazzling nightlife scene, while Stari Grad and Jelsa offer a quieter, more family-friendly vibe.


1. Hvar Town:

Hvar Town, the island's bustling hub, is a favorite among tourists for several compelling reasons. Its historic old town is adorned with centuries-old buildings and cobblestone streets. Tourists flock to Hvar Town for:

  • Vibrant Nightlife: Hvar Town is renowned for its lively nightlife, with beach bars, clubs, and a bustling main square offering a variety of entertainment options after dark.

  • Historical Attractions: Explore the ancient city walls, visit the historic Fortica (Španjola) Fortress, and stroll through St. Stephen's Square. Hvar Town is a historical gem.

  • Cultural Events: Experience the island's rich culture with various events and festivals taking place throughout the year, like the Hvar Summer Festival and Hvar Wine Festival.

2. Stari Grad:

Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in Europe, exudes tranquility and rich history. Visitors choose to stay or visit Stari Grad for:

  • UNESCO World Heritage Site: Stari Grad Plain is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its well-preserved ancient Greek land division. The town's historic core is a step back in time.

  • Secluded Beauty: Stari Grad offers a quieter atmosphere, making it an ideal destination for those seeking a more serene, family-friendly vacation.

  • Authentic Experiences: Immerse yourself in local culture and traditions, with numerous cultural events taking place throughout the year like Fešta Sv. Roka (Saint Roch Festival) in mid-August which celebrates the town's patron saint.



Jelsa is an attractive island town set around a pretty harbour.


3. Jelsa:

Jelsa, a charming coastal town on the island's northern coast, offers a relaxed and laid-back atmosphere. Tourists are drawn to Jelsa for:

  • Peaceful Harbor: Enjoy the picturesque harbor, ideal for leisurely walks and relaxation. Jelsa's unhurried pace is perfect for a peaceful getaway.

  • Local Cuisine: Savor local Dalmatian dishes in the town's welcoming restaurants, providing a more authentic and less touristy dining experience.

  • Scenic Beauty: Jelsa is nestled amidst lush greenery and vineyards, offering scenic views and opportunities for outdoor exploration.


Allow enough time to explore Hvar's cultural sites as well as lounging by the beach.


4. How Long Should You Spend on Hvar?


Remember to consider the season of your visit. Summers are lively with beach parties and vibrant nightlife, while spring and fall offer milder weather for hiking, cycling, and cultural exploration.


Weekend Getaway (2-3 Days):

If you have limited time but still want to experience the essence of Hvar, a weekend getaway can be fulfilling.

  • Dedicate your first day to Hvar Town's historic center. Wander its cobbled streets, visit the iconic St. Stephen's Square, and hike up to the Fortica (Španjola) Fortress for panoramic views.

  • Spend your second day basking on some of Hvar's renowned beaches, such as Dubovica Beach, Milna Beach, or Pokonji Dol Beach.

  • In the evenings, savor local Dalmatian cuisine in charming restaurants and experience Hvar Town's vibrant nightlife with beach bars and lively clubs like Carpe Diem.


Short Stay (4-6 Days):

For a more relaxed exploration of the island's main attractions, a 4-6 day visit is an excellent choice.

  • Take a day to explore Stari Grad's UNESCO-listed historic core and then venture to Jelsa for a leisurely day by the peaceful harbor.

  • Use your extra time to discover hidden coves, hike the Lavender Trail or explore inland vineyards.

  • Attend a local festival or event if your stay coincides with one, such as Stari Grad Summer Festival or Jelsa Wine Festival in August.


Extended Trip (7-10 Days):

A full-week on Hvar Island provides a well-rounded experience. You can thoroughly explore the main towns, enjoy numerous beach days, and venture into the island's natural beauty.

  • Take day trips to nearby islands like Brač and Vis, where you can explore their unique attractions, such as the famous Zlatni Rat Beach on Brač.

  • Dedicate separate days to each of the main towns, leisurely uncovering their charm, dining in local restaurants, and immersing yourself in island life.

  • Consider activities like kayaking, sailing, snorkeling or even a diving certification, enjoying the island's vibrant marine life and crystal-clear waters.


Palace Elisabeth is one of the best luxury hotels on Hvar Island, Croatia.


5. Best Accommodation Options on Hvar


Hvar Island offers everything from simple hostels and guesthouses to five-star luxury hotels, so with enough advance planning you can find the best place to stay in Hvar to meet your budget and requirements.


Luxury Hotels:

  • Palace Elisabeth Hvar Heritage Hotel: Set within a historic building that dates back to the 13th century, this top 5-star Hvar Town hotel offers elegant rooms and suites. The hotel's terrace is a popular spot for enjoying cocktails while taking in the sea views.

  • Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort: Located near Hvar Town, this plush 4-star resort boasts a stunning seafront location, private beach, swimming pools, and a range of upscale dining options.


Villa Riva is a top-rated guesthouse in Jelsa that's ideal for relaxing stays.


Charming Guesthouses and Apartments:

  • Apartments Komazin (Hvar Town): These top-rated self-catering apartments close to Hvar Town provide convenience and comfort for couples, families, and small groups of friends.

  • Apartments Mia (Stari Grad): Located just steps away from the picturesque harbor, Apartments Mia offers comfortable accommodations with modern amenities and friendly hosts.

  • Villa Riva (Jelsa): This stunning historic seafront property offers deluxe rooms and small apartments right next to Jelsa's harbour.


Hostel Villa Skansi is a great option for comfortable budget accommodation in Hvar Town.


Hostels & Budget Accommodation:

  • Hostel Marinero (Hvar Town): A budget-friendly option with a laid-back atmosphere, perfect for solo travelers or backpackers.

  • Hostel Villa Skansi (Hvar Town): Close to Hvar Town's attractions, offering both dormitory and private rooms.


Hotel Adriana boasts excellent views and family-friendly accommodation options.


Family-Friendly Accommodation:

  • Hotel Adriana (Hvar Town): This swanky 4-star hotel offers family rooms, a kid's club, and a spa for the adults, ensuring a comfortable stay for all the family.

  • Villa Patricia (Stari Grad): These spacious 2-bedroom apartments are ideal for families thanks to their proximity to the town centre, well-equipped kitchens and attractive outdoor pool.


Carpe Diem is the most famous club on Hvar Island.


6. What to do on Hvar


Hvar's best party and nightlife hotspots


Hvar's vibrant summer nightlife is famous across the world. Whether you're seeking beach parties, nightclubs, or lively bars, Hvar has it all:

  1. Hvar Town Nightlife: Hvar Town is the epicenter of the island's nightlife. Stroll along the buzzing waterfront promenade, where you'll find bars and restaurants that come to life after dark. Don't miss the famous Carpe Diem Beach Bar for an unforgettable party experience.

  2. Hula Hula Beach Bar: Located just a short walk from Hvar Town, Hula Hula is an iconic beach bar known for its afternoon beach parties and sunset views. It's the perfect place to unwind and dance by the sea.

  3. Veneranda: Housed in a 16th-century fortress overlooking Hvar Town, Veneranda hosts legendary parties and music events throughout the summer season. The historic setting adds a touch of uniqueness to the nightlife experience.

Cultural attractions & festivals on Hvar


Hvar Island is not just about parties; it's also steeped in history and culture. Here are some cultural attractions and festivals to explore:

  1. Hvar Town Old Town: Take a stroll through Hvar Town's charming old town, where you can explore historic landmarks such as the Fortica (Španjola) Fortress, St. Stephen's Square, and the Hvar Heritage Museum.

  2. Stari Grad UNESCO World Heritage Site: Discover the ancient streets of Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in Europe. Explore the Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its well-preserved Greek agricultural layout.

  3. Hvar Summer Festival: This annual event runs from June to September and features cultural events like classical concerts, theater performances, and art exhibitions, held at various venues in Hvar Town.

  4. Fešta Sv. Roka and Fešta Sv. Jelene: These local festivals, held in Stari Grad, celebrate the town's patron saints and provide an authentic glimpse into Croatian traditions and cultural heritage.


Hike up to Budinjac hill from Stari Grad to catch one of Hvar's amazing sunsets.


Active adventures on Hvar


For outdoor enthusiasts and adventure seekers, Hvar offers various active pursuits:

  1. Hiking and Cycling: Explore the island's natural beauty by hiking or cycling along scenic trails, such as the Lavender Trail or the Kabal Peninsula. These routes provide breathtaking views and a chance to connect with nature.

  2. Water Adventures: The crystal-clear waters of Hvar are ideal for water sports like kayaking, paddleboarding, and snorkeling. You can rent equipment or join guided excursions to explore the underwater world, or explore hidden coves like Mekićevica which can only be accessed by boat or a short hike.

  3. Island Hopping: Take a ferry or charter a boat to nearby islands like Brač, Vis, and Korčula. Each island offers unique experiences, from beautiful beaches to historical sites.

Kid-friendly activities on Hvar


Hvar Island is not just for adults; it's a family-friendly destination as well. Here are some activities that children will enjoy:

  1. Beach Days: Hvar's beaches offer safe and shallow waters, making them perfect for families. Some recommended family-friendly beaches include Bonj Les Bains in Hvar Town, Maslinica Beach in Stari Grad, and Grebišće Beach in Jelsa.

  2. Outdoor Adventures: Encourage active family adventures like hiking, cycling, or exploring the island's nature and charming villages. There are various trails suitable for family hikes and bike rides, like the Lavender Trail. While not on Hvar Island itself, a day trip to the nearby Biokovo Nature Park offers hiking trails, fresh air, and panoramic views.

  3. Boat Trips: Take a boat trip to the Pakleni Islands off Hvar and explore their natural beauty.

  4. Historic Sites: Explore historic sites such as the Španjola Fortress in Hvar Town or the Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to introduce your children to the island's cultural and historical heritage.


Kod Kapetana in Hvar Town offers generous portions of seafood with great views.


7. Hvar's Best Local Restaurants Chosen by Locals


What better way to get to know a place than to sit down and eat with the locals? Here are the best local Hvar restaurants that we love to eat at, from the fanciest special occasion places to the most humble konoba (a simple tavern).


1. Dalmatino (Hvar Town): Dalmatino, located in the heart of Hvar Town, is a favorite among both locals and visitors. It offers a superb selection of Dalmatian dishes with a modern twist. The restaurant's terrace tucked away down a little alleyway provides a charming setting to enjoy your meal while taking in the view of Hvar's historic surroundings.


2. Kod Kapetana (Hvar Town): This restaurant, situated in the charming setting of Hvar Town, is known for its traditional Dalmatian cuisine and warm and friendly staff. Locals appreciate the authentic flavors and fresh ingredients used in their dishes. Kod Kapetana is particularly famous for its seafood, such as grilled squid, mussels, and seafood risottos.


3. Konoba Menego (Stari Grad): Stari Grad is home to Konoba Menego, a local gem known for its warm atmosphere and hearty, home-cooked meals. The menu features traditional Croatian cuisine with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients, and they even refuse to serve beer, Coca Cola and fries in a bid to keep things authentically Dalmatian! Their seafood dishes and grilled meats come highly recommended. Kids and adults alike will enjoy the quirky old-style decor, which includes vintage tools and whole legs of ham hanging from the ceiling.


Sample Hvar's freshest seafood at Kod Barba Luke, one of the oldest taverns in Stari Grad.


4. Kod Barba Luke (Stari Grad): Another Stari Grad favorite and one of the oldest taverns in Stari Grad, Kod Barba Luke is a family-owned restaurant with a reputation for its delicious food and friendly service. The menu features local specialties like lamb dishes, fish, and traditional stews.


5. Kod Damira (Stari Grad): Kod Damira is a charming family-run restaurant in Stari Grad, known for its laid-back atmosphere, year-round service, and locally inspired dishes. The menu focuses on local ingredients like octopus, sardines, squid and whatever fish is caught that day, which are turned into delicious soups, risottos, and grilled fish platters. Don't miss the opportunity to try Hvar's traditional lavender cake! Advance bookings are highly recommended in the summer months.


Enjoy a taste of rural island life at Konoba Kokot in the village of Dol.


6. Konoba Kokot (Dol): Situated in the picturesque village of Dol inland from Stari Grad, Konoba Kokot is an authentic "konoba" or traditional Dalmatian tavern. Locals and visitors alike appreciate its unpretentious setting and the flavorful regional dishes it serves. Their grilled fish and seafood stand out.


Fresh grilled octopus is a common traditional dish on Hvar Island, Croatia.


8. Discover Hvar's Unique Traditional Dishes & Drinks


1. Grilled Fish and Seafood: Hvar's proximity to the Adriatic Sea means that seafood is a staple in the island's cuisine. Freshly caught fish, such as sea bream, sea bass, and squid, are often marinated in local olive oil, herbs, and garlic, then grilled to perfection. Try dishes like "Brancin na gradele" (grilled sea bass) or "Lignje na žaru" (grilled calamari) for an authentic taste of Hvar.


2. Peka: Peka is a traditional Dalmatian way of slow-cooking meat and vegetables under a bell-shaped lid, typically over an open fire or in an oven. Lamb or octopus are popular choices for peka dishes. The result is tender, succulent, and infused with Mediterranean herbs and flavors.


3. Hvar Lamb (Hvarski Ovčji Ražanj): The lamb from Hvar is celebrated for its quality, and it's often prepared on a spit roast (ražanj). The slow roasting process results in tender, flavorful meat with crispy skin.


4. Gregada: Gregada is a traditional Hvar fisherman's dish, typically prepared with white fish, potatoes, onions, and garlic, all cooked in a white wine and olive oil sauce. The dish is a comforting and flavorful representation of Hvar's maritime culture.


5. Dalmatian Prosciutto (Pršut): Cured ham is a staple in Dalmatian cuisine, and Hvar is no exception. Dalmatian prosciutto is air-dried, salty, and flavorful, often served with local cheese and olives.


6. Hvar Olive Oil: Hvar is renowned for its high-quality olive oil, made from a variety of olive trees native to the island. Locally produced olive oil is a key ingredient in many Hvar dishes, providing a rich and robust flavor.


Hvar is famous for its lavender fields which once produced 8% of the world's production.


7. Lavender: Hvar is known for its lavender fields, and lavender is used to create a variety of products, including lavender honey, lavender oil, and lavender-infused sweets. These make for unique and fragrant souvenirs. Don't miss lavender cake, a speciality of some Hvar restaurants and taverns.


8. Hvar Wine: The island's viticultural traditions date back to ancient times. Hvar is famous for its indigenous grape varieties, such as Plavac Mali and Bogdanuša. Visit local wineries to sample these wines, and don't miss the sweet dessert wine Prošek.


9. Loza: Loza is a traditional grape brandy (similar to grappa) produced on the island. It's a strong spirit often enjoyed as an aperitif or after a hearty meal.


10. Hvar Honey: Hvar's natural environment and diverse vegetation contribute to the production of high-quality honey. Taste the rich flavors of sage, rosemary, and other local herbs in Hvar's honey.


11. Black Risotto (Crni Rižot): Black risotto is a unique dish that gets its dark color from squid ink. It's often prepared with a mix of seafood, rice, and aromatic herbs, resulting in a dish with rich flavors and a stunning presentation.


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