Dinara, or Sinjal as the peak is usually known by Croatians, is a majestic mountain located in the Dinaric Alps close to the border with Bosnia. The summit is 1,831 meters (6,007 feet) above sea level, making it the highest peak in Croatia. The mountain is renowned for its rich biodiversity, with diverse flora and fauna, making it an excellent destination for nature lovers.
Overview
1. Getting to Dinara
Knin, the largest town at the base of Dinara, serves as the primary starting point for hikers aiming to conquer the mountain's summit. Most people begin their hike from the village of Glavaš which is about 30 minutes from Knin by car. You'll need to have your own vehicle to get up there as there are no public transit options available to reach Glavaš.
Alternatively, you can approach the summit from the other side of Dinara, via the sole road leading to higher elevations on the mountain which starts at the village of Guge on the outskirts of Knin. It's pretty winding, often dusty, and in a state of disrepair. Another route, originating from Suvo Polje, positioned at roughly half of Dinara's altitude, extends through a series of forest roads suitable only for 4x4 vehicles toward Brezovac. Here there's a convenient hiking hut where hikers often spend the night as the peak lies just three hours of climbing away.
2. When to Hike Dinara
It is possible to hike Dinara year-round as long as you are appropriately prepared for seasonal weather conditions.
Spring & Autumn: May or October are two of the best months for hiking thanks to moderate temperatures and relatively low rainfall. In May, the mountain is adorned with an abundance of flowers, while October ushers in autumn with a palette of vibrant colors.
Summer: Summer on Dinara ushers in scorching temperatures. The mountain offers minimal forested areas for shade, and the nearby town of Knin, located at the base of Dinara, claims the title of Croatia's hottest town. Daytime temperatures easily soar to 40°C. However, even in the summer the nights can surprise with a significant drop in temperature, sometimes plunging to freezing levels. Especially in summer water sources can be hard to find on the mountain, so make sure to carry sufficient water for the entire length of your hike.
Winter: Winter on Dinara is characterized by its harsh climate, despite its proximity to the Adriatic Sea (60km). The mountain experiences heavy snowfall during this season, and the most formidable element to contend with is the relentless Bura wind. This powerful force brings bone-chilling cold and an almost unbearable wind-chill effect, causing temperatures to plummet as low as -30°C. With a favorable weather forecast, essential gear includes sunglasses and crampons, while an ice ax can be beneficial, though walking sticks are often sufficient. It's important to note that, due to the absence of shelters on the mountain, winter climbs must be completed within a single day, which can be challenging given the shorter daylight hours during mid-winter.
3. Prepare for Your Hike
Before setting out, it's essential to prepare adequately to ensure your safety and enjoyment. Here's what you should do:
Research: Learn about the trail, weather, and any recent updates or closures. Local hiking clubs like the Croatian Mountaineering Association can be valuable sources of information - check out their introduction to hiking Dinara here.
Regulations and Restrictions: Check if there are any restrictions in place for hiking in the area. During periods of bad weather, access routes may be closed and local authorities may advise against going up the mountain. Note that wild camping is punishable by a 400 euro fine in Croatia, so leave the tent at home unless you plan to use official camping facilities.
Weather and Season: Consider carefully when is the best time to hike Dinara for you and your group. Most people avoid the extreme heat of summer and the freezing winters. Check the weather forecast before you go and be prepared with warm and dry clothing in case of last minute changes on the mountain. It's a good idea to tell someone where you are going, especially if you plan to hike alone.
Physical Fitness: Ensure you're in good physical condition and capable of hiking for an extended period. Dinara is a moderately demanding peak that takes around 7-9 hours to complete.
Hiking Gear: Pack the appropriate gear, including sturdy hiking boots, weather-appropriate clothing, a backpack, a map, a compass or GPS, first aid supplies, and enough food and water to last the trip.
The route from the village of Glavaš to Dinara summit passes an old ruined fort.
4. Choosing Your Route:
There are two main routes to the summit of Dinara, but the most popular starting point is the village of Glavaš.
Glavaš Route
Starting Point: Village of Glavaš
Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: 16km
Time: Around 4 hours to the summit
Highlights: This route is well-marked and moderate in difficulty. Along the way, you'll pass by an evocative old fort and a water source where you may have to compete with horses to fill your bottle. About 1 hour from the summit you can rest at the Drago Grubać mountain house which has a water source, rustic outdoor bathroom (with great views!), and basic kitchen facilities.
Via Brezovac
Starting Point: Suvo Polje parking lot (810m)
Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: Around 12km roundtrip from Brezovac to the summit
Time: 3.5-4 hours to the summit from Suvo Polje
Highlights: From the parking lot at Suvo Polje you can hike up to the Brezovac mountain hut (1050m). From here it is around 2-3 hours to the summit depending on your walking speed. This route is more suitable for less experienced hikers since there is the option to break the journey by spending the night in the mountain hut (with prior reservation).
5. Staying in Mountain Huts:
If you're planning a multi-day hike or want to experience the mountain's beauty at different times of the day, you can stay in one of the mountain huts available in the area. These huts provide a rustic, yet comfortable, accommodation option. You'll need to reserve in advance if you want to stay overnight.
Planinarski dom Drago Grubač: Located around an hour from the summit, this hut offers stunning views and is a popular choice for hikers. It's a simple mountain refuge with basic kitchenware, an outdoor bathroom, and small upstairs sleeping platform that can fit 6-7 people. You'll need to take sleeping mats, bedding, and any cooking utensils and crockery since supplies in the hut are very limited.
Planinarska kuća Brezovac: This hut is much larger than Drago Grubač, sleeping up to 42 people. It is equipped with an extensive outdoor grill area, water tank, and indoor dining area.
6. Safety Considerations:
In case of inclement weather, it's better to turn back rather than risk danger. Rocky trails like those on Dinara can get dangerously slippery when it rains.
Be cautious of wildlife and follow any local advice regarding encounters with animals. It is relatively rare to see animals on Dinara except for domesticated horses and the odd mountain goat.
If you're hiking alone, let someone know your plans and expected return time.
Leftover landmines from the Yugoslavian conflicts of the 1990s are still found in the wider area. Always stick to the marked trail unless you're with a local guide.
7. Hiking Dinara with Kids
Dinara is a moderately demanding hike for fit adults, so older kids and teens who are used to regular physical activity should be fine. For the ultimate family adventure, consider staying overnight in the Drago Grubač mountain hut below the summit where you can watch the stars and toast marshmallows over the fire. For those with younger kids the lower reaches of the mountain and forested areas are ideal for leisurely walks or picnics.
8. Exploring the Region After Your Hike:
After a rewarding hike to Dinara, you'll likely want to continue your adventure by exploring the surrounding region. There are several excellent options for post-hike activities, and one of them is visiting the Cetina River. Here's what to do:
Visit the Cetina River: The Cetina River is one of the most captivating natural wonders in the Split region. Its emerald-green waters flow through a stunning canyon, creating a unique setting for various outdoor activities. You can:
Rafting and Kayaking: The Cetina River is famous for its white-water rafting and kayaking opportunities. You can embark on an adrenaline-pumping adventure, navigate through exciting rapids, and take in the beauty of the river canyon.
Canyoning: If you're seeking an even more thrilling experience, try canyoning in the Cetina River Canyon. This involves hiking, swimming, and descending waterfalls in a pristine natural environment.
Zipline Adventure: For those who prefer a bird's-eye view of the Cetina Canyon, you can also experience ziplining over the river. It's a unique way to enjoy the breathtaking scenery from above.
Swim in Lake Peručka: Peruča Lake, nestled in the heart of Croatia's Dalmatian hinterland, is a man-made reservoir that came into existence in 1958 through the construction of a dam on the Cetina River, the largest river in the region. This expansive body of water offers an array of aquatic activities for water enthusiasts. From swimming and kayaking to paddleboarding and exhilarating jet-skiing, Peruča Lake ensures an invigorating and refreshing experience.
Explore Nearby Towns and Villages: The region around Split is dotted with charming towns and villages that offer a taste of traditional Croatian culture. You can visit places like Sinj, Imotski, and Trilj to discover historic sites, local cuisine, and warm hospitality.
Sample Local Cuisine: After a day of adventure, savor traditional Dalmatian dishes at local restaurants. Try specialties like grilled fish, fresh seafood, lamb, and the famous Peka, a slow-cooked stew made with meat and vegetables.
Relax on the Coast: If you have the time, consider heading to the coast and enjoying the beautiful beaches and crystal-clear waters along the Adriatic Sea. Popular coastal destinations like Makarska, Brela, and Omis offer great opportunities for swimming, sunbathing, and water sports.